Bermuda's old Railway Trail, stretching the length of the island, is a mecca for walkers, mountain-bikers, equestrians and joggers. Built in the 1930s at great expense for a train that died with the advent of the motor car, its route today is a serene, traffic-free path through the parishes. Main road signposts indicate access routes and the dirt trail, lined by arching cherry bushes, jasmine vines and hibiscus flowers, meanders gently past farmers' fields, private homes, schoolyards and golf-courses.

The peaceful back streets of St George's invite soporific strolls past pastel cottages and limestone walls draped with palm fronds, frangipani and exotic banana flowers. A World Heritage Site since 2000 and currently being restored, the old town was Bermuda's first capital, from 1612, and a headquarters over the centuries to privateers, American Civil War blockade-runners, British garrisons and visiting yachts. Stores sell antiques, artworks, books and island-made blown glass.

Fort St Catherine, at the East End landing spot of Sir George Somers, the shipwrecked admiral for whom the town is named, is a must-see, with its tunnels, Crown Jewels replicas – and resident ghost ('George'). Visitors can also enjoy watersports such as kayaking and parasailing from St George's Wharf.

Explore Bermuda's sea-forged heritage at Bermuda Maritime Museum, situated at the Old Royal Naval Dockyard. The museum sprawls over Bermuda's westernmost tip, its historic buildings ringed by cannon-dotted ramparts.

At its highest point, the imposing three-storey Commissioner's House, with sweeping vistas of the North Shore and Great Sound, is perhaps Bermuda's most spectacular landmark. While you're there, you can also watch, or swim with, the magnificent dolphins of Dolphin Quest, located at the Keep Pond.

Also not to be missed are the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, which commands a bird's-eye view of the island; and the underground magic of the Crystal Caves.

Islanders, visitors and business-types in Bermuda shorts mingle on Hamilton's Front and Reid Streets, where new boutiques showcasing Dolce & Gabbana, Max Mara and Kenneth Cole sit cheek-by-jowl with centuries-old, family-owned shops offering bargains on Irish linen, Scottish woollens, Wedgwood and local artisanry. Front Street's harbour-facing verandah cafés are the perfect time-out between purchases.

Innovative Bermudian cuisine is the drawing card at the award-winning Seahorse Grill (+1 (441) 236 3535) at Elbow Beach.

In Hamilton, Barracuda Grill is one of Bermuda's most celebrated seafood restaurants known for its contemporary style. It is breathtakingly stylish, featuring warm mahogany woods, plush banquettes and an undeniably sumptuous but ever-so-comfortable dining room. If a little early for your reservation, sit at the hip and tres chic bar and enjoy martinis made to share, or one of over sixteen wines served by the glass. For reservations call (+1 (441) 292 1609).

For sumptuous alfresco dining with a breathtaking ocean view, Sapori Restaurant & Terrace (+1 (441) 236 7201) is the perfect venue.

The best fresh seafood can be found in the far reaches of St David's, where fisherman Gary Lamb's Black Horse Tavern (+1 441 297 1991) lures locals and visitors with shark hash, wahoo and spiny lobster, among other great dishes.

Bermudians like to party on Fridays, making the rounds of several 'it' places after work. Chief among them is the Veranda Bar at Elbow Beach, where the ocean view complements cocktails like the dangerous Dark 'n' Stormy (black rum with ginger beer).

In Hamilton, revellers gather at The Lemon Tree Café, drawn by its parkside patio, sangria, roast-beef carvery and canapés. The Harbourfront Restaurant, situated right on the harbour, offers the perfect setting for either a casual lunch or an elegant dining experience. The varied menu features a selection of the freshest fish and seafood and dry Aged Meats with a wonderful selection of specialty dishes created with the utmost care and attention. They also offer a Sushi and Tempura Bar.

Horseshoe Bay Beach on a Saturday afternoon brings out the same crowd, there to make the most of sun, sea and typically Bermudian pink sand.