To get a real feel for Bangkok, nothing beats a leisurely sojourn in the city's green lung, Lumpini Park. It's a short stroll from Sala Daeng Skytrain station, or take a taxi to Rama IV Road. Once around the park is almost three kilometres, so it's heaven for joggers, walkers and rollerbladers in search of a car-free oasis. There's also an open-air gym where musclebound types grunt and sweat, a restaurant with an old dog who howls along with the national anthem at 6pm each day, stands hawking medicinal shots of snake's bile, as well as a ceaseless parade of young lovers, loiterers, eccentrics, picnickers and other assorted species of Bangkok fauna.

Have you ever dreamed of the halcyon days of the tall ships, when sailing was redolent of rum and romance, and men were drawn by the siren song of the high seas? You can get a taste of those days aboard the Seraph, a beautifully restored 100-year-old schooner which began its life as a fishing boat in Denmark. Captain Tim Jones and his crew will take you on a two-day adventure around a string of near-deserted islands off Bangkok's nearest seaside town, Pattaya, and will even have you 'sweating the lines' and helping to sail the boat, if you so desire. Gulf Charters Thailand; +66 (38) 237 752.

For an intimate glimpse of the days when Bangkok was known as the Venice of the East, take a ride on a longtail boat through the network of khlongs, or canals, that fan out from the Chao Phraya River (River of Kings) towards Nontaburi, north of Bangkok. You can hire a boat for about 500 baht per hour from River City Pier, or the nearby Oriental Pier. The boats are noisy, your backside is perched on a hard teak seat and you might get the occasional face-full of spray, but the fascinating tableau of khlong life, a world far removed from the automotive madness of the rest of the city, is worth the minor discomfort. On the way, stop at Wat Arun.

Upscale shopping nirvanas abound in Bangkok: the likes of Gaysorn Plaza, Siam Discovery Center and Central World Plaza are conveniently located and within minutes' walk of each other.

Emporium is just a few stations away on the fast and convenient BTS Skytrain. But if you fancy going further afield, make a beeline for the mother of all markets, Chatuchak. It's hot and crowded, but even those who profess to loathe shopping trips will find something to tickle their fancy at this sprawling weekend bazaar. It's located next to the Skytrain terminus at Mo Chit.

You don't have to venture far for an unforgettable night out. We suggest an evening of starlit enchantment on the Maeyanang (+66 (2) 659 9000), Mandarin Oriental's own old teak rice barge (right) that has been converted into a floating restaurant (October to mid-April). Enjoy cocktails, a sumptuous Thai and Western buffet dinner with live music, while taking in the beauty of Bangkok by night.

For a change of pace, try Caffe di Roma (+66 (2) 632 8250) in Patpong Road: watch a carnival of the bizarre pass by the windows, while you sip fine wines and tuck into perfect pizza and pasta.

If you want to mix with Bangkok's beautiful people, Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11; +66 (2) 651 3537) is the city's last word in hipper-than-thou chic. Here the terminally cool recline on vast white sofas, nibble on the latest fusion fads, and view art installations to a soundtrack of chill-out house music. You can't miss it from the outside: the building looks like a squashed tin can held up by toothpicks. Get bedded in, and do like the owner suggests: wine, dine, recline.

If smooth jazz grooves are more your thing, wander down to Mandarin Oriental's Bamboo Bar and take in the diva du jour.

And for something completely different, how about bowling? SF Strike Bowl (MBK shopping centre, Phayathai Road; +66 (2) 611 4555) is designed by the people behind Bed – its sleek white lanes are lit in eerie blue and red hues, with a cocktail bar, DJs, karaoke and pool tables.