Prague has long outgrown its dumplings-with-everything days; its swank eateries now more likely to offer wonton and shumai. Pan-Asian menus abound; Essensia, signature restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Prague, delights patrons with a modern take on European and Asian culinary traditions on two distinct menus. Spectacular views and globe-trotting menus make restaurants like Kampa Park, La Perle de Prague and Mlynec perennial favourites, while Pálffy Palác charms with its grand dining room, all gilt stucco, mirrors and candles, in a baroque palace. For an haute take on classic Czech cuisine, try Cerny Kohout near the National Theatre. In Vinohrady, Aromí reigns as one of the finest Italians in town, and Perpetuum in Dejvice is a duck-lover's dream - an all-duck, all-the-time restaurant. Shopping for famous Czech glass can be dizzying; there's such an extensive array of choice. Start with the grande dame of Czech glassmakers Moser, whose distinctive lead-free glass can be found at the maker's flagship store on Na Príkope. The stylish new shop Material, by the Charles Bridge, carries a great selection of contemporary designs. Borek Sípek, a prominent contemporary architect/designer/restaurateur, showcases some of his covetable work in his Thai restaurant-cum-design salon, Arzenal.

Franz Kafka is probably Prague's most famous native, and at last, his home town has honoured the author with an exhibit that does his work justice. At the Franz Kafka Museum, in a former brick factory in Malá Strana, the exhibition entitled The City of K.: Franz Kafka and Prague explores the complex and uneasy, yet fruitful relationship between the man and the city. As well as a collection of Kafka's first editions, letters, quotations, diaries, manuscripts, photographs and drawings, there are 3-D installations, audiovisual pieces and soundtracks to draw you into Kafka's fascinating world.

Prague is famed for its architecture, from 1,000 years ago to present day. Palatial art nouveau edifice The Municipal House (Obecní dum) is among Prague's grandest buildings, its façade only hinting at the splendour inside. Besides restaurants, a gallery, a concert hall and shop, the building has exquisite state rooms that can only be seen on the tour - well worth booking ahead for the stunning mosaics, textiles, ornate clocks and chandeliers.Round the corner, the geometri-cal façade of The House of the Black Madonna stands in perfect contrast. Its cubism exhibition showcases not only painting and sculpture but also furniture and home design, a Czech speciality. The second-floor Grand Café Orient, restored to its original green-tinged grandeur, serves aptly triangular sandwiches, while the Kubista store sells cubist pieces, from jewellery to furniture.

Prague's legendary hundred spires offer stunning bird's-eye views. One of the best is from the top of the Old Town Hall in Old Town Square (with a lift to the top). A series of breathtaking vistas (bring a camera!) opens to those who ascend Petrín Hill, either by funicular or on foot, and walk along the hillside to the castle. Of the many museums, the Museum of Decorative Arts deserves special mention; it's compact and easily managed in an afternoon, but its outstanding collections will have you coming back for more.

Prague's fairytale atmosphere appeals to most children - a horse-drawn carriage ride along cobbled streets rarely fails to delight. Some cultural offerings, such as marionette shows of Don Giovanni by the National Marionette Theatre or the Laterna Magika shows, are appropriate for teenagers and older children, while younger ones will enjoy marvels like the Eiffel Tower carved in a cherry stone and the world's smallest printed book at the quirky Museum of Miniatures at Strahov Monastery.

For a taste of wilderness within city limits, head out to Prague Zoo in the Troja district. Its dramatic terrain, unexpected views and inspired exhibits make it a favourite escape for urban Praguers. The Indonesia Jungle pavilion, which is a self-contained eco-system, is the zoo's ambitious new project.