Six essential Lucerne experiences

Even in a country famed for its lakes, few Swiss cities can match Lucerne when it comes to getting out on the water. The shoreline is filled with parks, lidos and beaches in which to enjoy its beauty and stillness – or maybe kick back with a sundowner in resorts and pop-up bars that open through the summer. Canoes and kayaks let you power yourself over the emerald-green water, while sailing classes, fishing trips and even diving – at least in summer – show why the lake is beloved by locals and visitors alike when it comes to getting active. While it’s possible to circumnavigate Switzerland’s fourth largest lake by rail or road, obviously you’re going to want to explore its inlets, bays and take in the truly majestic mountains that line it. Take your pick from a number of vessels, but we love the stately Steamboat Uri, Switzerland’s oldest paddle steamer, which gently pootles along the river beneath the majestic 7,000ft Mount Pilatus.

Another must-visit while in Lucerne is the medieval beauty of the Musegg Wall, nine 14th-century towers linked by ramparts that used to protect the town back in the day when visitors weren’t always very friendly. The remarkably well-preserved fortifications provide fascinating insights into old Lucerne in their own right, but many visitors climb them to enjoy stellar views of the rooftops and spires below, the Reuss river, the placid beauty of Lake Lucerne and the breathtaking mountains beyond. The towers continue to serve as a reminder of Lucerne’s power, status and wealth in the Middle Ages and four of them can be entered and visited from April through November.

Lucerne’s remarkably preserved old town or Altstadt lies largely between the City Hall and Chapel Bridge, parallel to the river Reuss. One tip is to look up at the historic houses adorned with frescos, which reveal much about the trades and people that helped to make the city we see today. Weinmarkt was a former fish market featuring a beautiful fountain, while Mühlenplatz dates from the Middle Ages and is Lucerne’s largest historic square. Unique and quirky design touches abound through the old town, including an ornate carved sign of a pretzel to show the former home of a bakery guild. It sits above a restaurant, one of many on the waterside offering dishes with a side order of great views of Chapel Bridge. One local must-order is the difficult to pronounce but utterly delicious Luzerner Chügelipastete. Think an oversized vol-au-vent of flaky pastry filled with veal, sweetbread, sausage and mushrooms in a creamy saffron sauce.