The Manila District Everyone Falls in Love With

Few districts of Asian capital cities offer such thrilling contradictions as Makati in Manila. Occasionally frenetic but also surprisingly relaxing, historic yet relentlessly modern, it’s a gleaming financial and cultural powerhouse where spectacular glass skyscrapers soar above peaceful tropical gardens.

Maybe it’s the combination of inimitable Filipino hospitality and contemporary creativity, but once people warm to Makati – and they always do – it quickly becomes the place they love to call home, either as residents or visitors. Today’s Makati was once a pre-Hispanic settlement bordering Manila’s Pasig River, before becoming, in the 17th century under the Jesuits, a vast agricultural estate called Hacienda de San Pedro de Macati.

By the late 1930s, it had become home to Neilson Field, Manila’s first airport. Today the striking Art Deco control tower survives as Blackbird, one of the city’s most atmospheric restaurants. Some of Makati’s wide boulevards still trace the former runways, while back in 1946 it was also the setting for an aviation landmark as Philippine Airlines became the first Asian airline to cross the Pacific Ocean, flying from Makati to Oakland, California.

Today Blackbird sits on Ayala Avenue, Makati’s most prestigious thoroughfare, named for the Zóbel de Ayala family, one of the Philippines’ oldest, wealthiest and most influential business dynasties. They realised Makati’s huge potential and after World War II developed it into the Philippines’ foremost commercial district. From the outset, thoughtful planning incorporated interconnected walkways and generous public spaces, none of which is more enticing than Ayala Triangle Gardens.

For up-and-coming designers and one-off boutiques, head across Makati to The Alley at Karrivin, a compact, quiet and pedestrian-only alleyway. During the day, creative types sip perfectly crafted coffees from Three Squares Café, then browse rotating art exhibitions and discover locally crafted homeware and jewellery at The Drawing Room, Lanai or Casa Bella. Come evening, it’s the spot to linger over cocktails before hitting up some of the finest places to eat in Makati’s white-hot restaurant scene. In a city known for its love of socially driven dining, Makati is unmatched.

Toyo Eatery from chef Jordy Navarra serves up a peerless ode to Filipino contemporary cuisine, where a Michelin star adds to the sense of excitement without ever affecting its beautifully laidback and heartfelt hospitality. Then just steps away, half-French, half-Filipino chef Stephan Duhesme and his team at Metiz craft beautiful plates that underscore why the country’s thrilling food culture is finally getting the international acclaim it deserves.

For local street eats, Salcedo Market every Saturday is a foodie’s paradise, with dozens of stalls serving beloved roast suckling pig called lechon, addictive sweet silken tofu called taho or isaw – grilled chicken intestines on a stick. The surrounding streets are closed to traffic and the adjoining Jaime C Velasquez Park is populated by dog walkers, families and TikTokers brandishing viral treats.

In many cities, financial districts empty after office hours, but Makati turns that trope on its head as restaurants fill and bars and clubs pulsate. The crowd perfectly reflects Makati: sophisticated but never pretentious, proudly local but outward-looking – and always set on having the best time.