An exquisitely presented dish served at Refer restaurant in Beijing

Where to eat in Beijing

Dine
By Clodagh Kinsella
September 18, 2023

From street-food noodles to Peking duck, sample the city’s greatest hits.


It might be best known for Peking duck, but Beijing’s dining scene is more akin to that other local classic, hotpot, thanks to its lively mix of regional cuisines. This is a city with a real appreciation of the classics, from street-food staples such as zha jiang mian noodles to decadent revivals of Imperial palace dishes. Still, times are changing, and there have been some seismic shifts, from the rise of plant-based dining to the craft-beer boom. Not sure where to start? Consult the concierge at Mandarin Oriental Wangfujing, Beijing, and check out our essential suggestions.

Succulent slices of peking duck served in a basket

For the most regal of roasts

There’s nothing to rival authentic Peking duck: air-dried, slow-roasted, then served with all the trimmings, from finely sliced scallions to heye bing (paper-thin, ‘lotus-leaf’ pancakes). In the Dongcheng District, head to veteran duck specialist Da Dong’s Michelin-approved flagship. Roasted in a wood-fired oven, its 22-day-old birds are perfection: succulent, crisp-skinned and expertly carved at your table. Another standout is the Michelin-starred Mansion Cuisine by Jingyan, set in a beautifully restored courtyard house in Chaoyang. Its Peking duck is served three ways (both caviar and black truffle feature) or is carved into 108 slices in traditional fashion.

A table for two with beautiful views at King’s Joy in Beijing

For plant-based fine dining

Close to the Lama Temple, King’s Joy was the first vegetarian restaurant in the world to win three Michelin stars. Its set menu dishes are a symphony of flavours, texture and technique, from monkey’s head mushrooms, whose taste resembles pork, to sweet-and-sour lotus roots. The setting adds to the effect, with its mist-wreathed entrance, bamboo-dotted courtyard and glass-roofed dining room. Vege Wonder is another upscale option in elegantly pared-back surrounds (think tatami-style wall panels, polished concrete floors and sculptural lighting). The food, too, is flawlessly presented, from tiny, zebra-striped mushroom dumplings to desserts that resemble unfurling flowers.

A bowl of the tempting zha jiang mian noodle dish

For note-perfect comfort food

Sometimes dubbed ‘Chinese Bolognese’ (the literal translation is ‘fried-sauce noodles’), zha jiang mian is a local street-food staple of thick, springy wheat noodles slathered with a soybean-based sauce. Neighbourhood restaurant No.69 Fangzhuanchang Zha Jiang Mian offers a textbook version dressed with a rich pork sauce and topped with shredded cucumber and radish. For an even smoother experience, visit Michelin-starred Sheng Yong Xing, in Chaoyang. It’s a contender for the finest duck in town, but the chef started his career with zha jiang mian, so you’ll be in very safe hands.

A unique and delicately presented dish served at Refer restaurant in Beijing

For experimental eats

Canadian chef Talib Hudda is the talent behind Refer, Beijing’s top entry on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. His tasting menus consist of 20 intricate plates that are Nordic-inspired, but too wildly inventive to stick to one continent or country. Rarely have dishes been presented with such panache: think tessellated puzzles of blue lobster claw anointed with purple shiso, or a tiny translucent celeriac shell filled with teardrop peas and pickled mackerel.

All offers and experiences available at time of publication. Please contact the relevant hotel team for more information.

Clodagh Kinsella
About the Author
Clodagh Kinsella
Specialising in travel and culture, Clodagh has written for Condé Nast Traveller, The Independent and Monocle.