Where to eat in Santiago

By Chris Moss

October 1, 2022

Discover Santiago’s best restaurants, for ceviche, modern Chilean cuisine, polished fine dining and more.

Foodies, take note: Santiago is fast gaining ground on Latin America’s gastronomic super-capitals of Lima, Mexico City and São Paulo. While big-hitter Boragó claims a lot of the global press, the scene is ever-changing and full of up-and-coming talents. Whether you’re in search of fine dining, or the ultimate steak sandwich, here’s where to head.

Best for… Inspired culinary fusions

Santiago’s gastronomy has a strong trans-Pacific theme.

Think superlative nigri-sushi, maki-sushi and teppanyaki, served in sophisticated surrounds. Senso, meanwhile, combines Mediterranean techniques with locally-netted seafood, like Magellan king crab from Chiloé Island, served with parsley aïoli. It’s also an excellent place to explore the gamut of Chilean wines, thanks to its formidably well-stocked cellar.

Best for… Modern Chilean

At Boragó – set in a swanky post-industrial space in Vitacura – chef Rodolfo Guzmán melds El Bulli-grade techniques with Chile’s rich larder. The result? The most dashing New Chilean cuisine in the city, and a spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Expect beautifully pared-back presentation, and a seasonally-shifting tasting menu, showcasing spoils from the mountains, desert and sea. That might mean often-overlooked fish, foraged funghi or beeswax-aged duck, while ash is used as seasoning, in a nod to Chile’s volcanic Andean spine.

Best for… Signature ceviche

France and Chile collude to stunning effect at Ambrosia a favourite with local Santiaguinos. Set in a former family home, divided into intimate dining rooms, the restaurant – helmed by Carolina Bazán – is classy but comforting.

The squid-ink pasta is perfection, as is the tiradito (a spicy, Japanese-Peruvian take on sashimi). Her ceviche, meanwhile, has become a signature, featuring local cangrejo dorado (golden crab), spiked with orange and grapefruit.

Best for… Chilean classics

Santiago may lack the carnivorous zeal of Buenos Aires, but meat is still a key ingredient in the local kitchen, especially for lunch. Named after a past president, the Barros Luco is a fillet steak sandwich served with melted cheese (ask for extra avocado, and a dash of ají chileno relish).

You’ll find a fine example at Fuente Alemana, a classic sandwich bar, in situ since 1954. Pastel de choclo is another national icon – a hearty cross between a pie and casserole, layered with sweetcorn, beef, chicken, raisins, olives and onions. Try it for yourself at wood-lined diner Galindo, which is always buzzing with pastel aficionados.

Best for… Coffee and cake

A few years ago, coffee in Santiago meant make-your-own instant at the table or an inky espresso at the city’s bizarre cafés con piernas – coffee shops ‘with legs’ (AKA staff in short skirts), aimed at ageing businessmen.

Happily, the new wave has very much arrived, with creative coffee shops such as Café Wonderland and 3841 Coffee Roasters. Chile’s German connections mean cakes, or kuchen, are taken seriously; look out for sumptuous, cherry-topped slabs of black forest gateau.

Best for… A glass or two of wine

A century ago, when Santiago was far smaller, pioneering winemakers established estates close to the centre. They still lie inside the modern sprawl, so day-trips couldn’t be simpler. Call in at legendary producers such as Concha y Toro or Cousiño-Macul, opting for the bike tour for some easy exercise. Carmén is also well worth a visit, as the place where carménère was rediscovered in the 1990s.

If you want a day trip out of town, head for the Casablanca Valley, known the world over for its crisp whites and spritely sparkling wines, followed by a seafood supper in Valparaíso.

About the Author

Chris Moss

Chris is a food, arts and travel writer, who has worked with Telegraph Ultra, Elite Traveler and Condé Nast Traveller.